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Evening crowd gathered on the stone ghats of a river bank at Har ki Pauri, Haridwar, seated in rows close to the water while others stand on the tiered steps behind. Most seated people wear white kurtas and dhotis or pastel saris and salwar kameez; some women wear pink, orange and teal saris. Small blue and red sheds and canopies line the steps, and a wooden-framed structure with pink and white arches stands at the centre. A large billboard with a woman's portrait and Hindi script hangs on a hillside above, and the wooded slope rises behind the buildings under a pale sky.